Unfortunately, the first revolver did not work. The idea was good, the implementation suffered. The lack of precision caused the whole thing to collapse after some tests. So i had to re-make the revolver with better materials and better precision. Regarding the materials, the only change i made was a smaller in diameter revolver chamber aluminum tube. This would cause the straws to be more vertical when they go down the chamber. As far as the precision is concerned, i managed a 0.2mm precision! How? Well, the answer is a CNC machine. I went to a customer of mine named Polidorou. He owns a high end CNC for wood processing. Here are some photos from the whole process:
This is the machine (half of it)
Ant the CAD/CAM software. Here i program the pieces
These are the pieces ready with astonishing precision!
The owner of the machine. Thanks Christara!
I then cut the new (and smaller in diameter aluminum tubes) with a saw again in the company of Mr. Polidorou. The assemble of the revolver looks perfect now! The whole construction is rigid and the tubes are firmly placed in position.
I decided NOT to make a commutator as before. I will test the vibrator fixed on the housing. This way, the revolver will be simpler. Mechanics loves simplicity because it works. The vibrator is strong enough, and hopefully it will shake the whole group. Then, i did 2 holes on the revolver plates and i used 2 long screws to fix it all together. I have oder blind nuts for the top side because now it looks awful. On the bottom side, i routed pockets for the nuts so they do not go over the plane of this side. I cut narrow self-stick air-block tapes and sticked them at the perimeter of the two revolver pieces. These pieces are about 4mm smaller in diameter from the straw tank diameter which they are supposed to fit in. The air-stop will act as a bush-bearing... or something. Also, the scary noise from the vibrator will be eliminated.
I made 2 holes on each revolver plate for the screws to go thorugh
Two pockets will "hide" the nuts inside the bottom piece of the revolver
The aero-stop will act as a bush-bearing and as a noise shield
Time for the sensors
The sensors are basically mounted on the base of the revolver. This is the 3rd piece with the single hole. First of all, the straw sensor. This sensor checks if there is a straw on the chamber ready to be sent to the coffee glass. I routed 2 pockets one opposite the other, at the perimeter of the straw hole. One pocket is for the LED, and the other for the photo resistor. The circuit that i used for the sensor is the Light / Dark Activated Relay, the third circuit (with the 741). Of course i do not use the relay! The transistor output is sent directly to the PIC. First i tried an SMD blue LED. Ridiculously, it did not work! The blue light penetrated the straws! Unbelievable. I changed then the LED with a normal red 3mm (i had no SMD red LED). It works perfectly.
I did 2 pockets at the perimeter of the hole
At first, i used a blue SMD LED. Ridiculously, the blue light penetrated the straws unaffected!
I changed it with a red 3mm LED
With hot glue, i glued the LED opposite the large photoresistor. Whenever a straw goes through the hole, the beam is cut!
Next, the alignment sensor. For this sensor, i drilled one 2mm hole at the base, near the edge (perimeter), not too close though. I also made a pocket for the small photo-resistor. Then, i made 4 2mm holes at the bottom piece of the revolver in a way that, when one chamber is aligned with the base hole, one 2mm hole of the bottom piece will be aligned with the base hole! The, i drilled the tube that the revolver goes inside and i planted an LED inside. When the holes are aligned, the LED light will go though the 2mm holes directly on the surface of the photo-resistor and voila! I used the same Light / Dark Activated Relay circuit for this sensor as well.
This is the hole with the pocket for the small photo-resistor
And these are the holes on the bottom revolver piece. I also sticked an opaque black film to cut parasitic light rays
The holes are aligned!
I drilled the tube that the revolver goes in and planted the light-transmitter LED from the sensor pair.
The revolver and the sensors are now completed. I used the same technique as before to fix the motor on the revolver, but i spent more time and i did a professional job. It was just about time for the.... stinger!!!!
@Alex In Greece during the Ancient times there was this saying: "Oyden monimoteron ek toy prosorinoy" which means that "nothing is more permanent than the temporary".
But now that you said that again, i think i should restart this project, shouldn't I? Hopefully within this year.
Hi you have a nice coffee Instant Cold Coffee Machine but you wanted to use a fridge for cold water but no water cooler that you use waron also in coffee automaaten is where you can get I know old water out of if not the name but it can look for you we have that built-in devices greetings alex
Hello George. Regarding the elements, these are hardware wiring to indicate wire connections between the modules. The orange boxes indicate wires coming from the output module (Digital Output Module - DOM), and the green indicate wires going to the Digital Input Modules. Notice that for example, from module "Rotary table", 4 wires comes out, then 2 of them arrive from the DOM and 2 goes to the CPU.
As far as the diode is concerned, this is only for polarity protection. It is the same as the D2. But you are right, It is not necessary and i may not put it after all.
I think your architecture diagram (first figure) is slightly confusing, because it seems to include elements of code (the elements above the CPU) with hardware elements. Ideally, you would have a system-level block diagram detailing your hardware and a separate functional block diagram to describe your code. If I'm misreading your architecture diagram, feel free to ignore this.
Secondly, looking at your reset circuitry, I see you have a 1N4148 diode between your microcontroller pin and your ICSP header (pin 1). I'm fairly certain this diode is not necessary, so you may want to double check that.
Frappé has become very popular here in the States. The difference is we use fresh coffee grounds to make coffee then we chill the hot coffee. But we tend to make more fresh coffee here while Europeans tend to make more instant coffee.
To serve we pour some in a glass and add chipped ice.
We also tend to add flavors to our frappé in the States. We can't leave a good thing alone - we have to tinker with it to make it more sellable.