I will begin with the easiest group. A small high speed 3V DC motor will rotate the mixer. Either by PWM or voltage regulation, i will control the speed of this motor. The motor must be able to move up-down about 220mm, considering that a tall coffee glass is about 190mm. This is what i am talking about:
The construction of the linear guide
I cut with a round hollow drill 4 pieces of thick plexi glass. The diameter of these plastic pieces -that are supposed to be used as spacers and covers, was about 2mm bigger than the plastic tube that are supposed to be entered. So, i fixed each plastic piece on a M5 screw-nut, i fixed this screw on the chock of the drill, and using a file i fixed the outside diameter to fit the tube. I did this for all 4 pieces. I filed one piece conical. This is supposed to be the front cover. The bigger diameter is exactly the same (and maybe 1 tenth bigger) than the internal diameter of the tube, so that this piece will stuck inside. The other pieces can be a little bit smaller.
With a hollow drill, i removed 4 round pieces from a plexi glass
I fixed each piece on a screw-nut
Using the drill and the file, i decreased the diameter of the pieces to fit in the tube
I made one piece conical, so that it will stuck in the tube
Then i did some router work on the front and back piece:
I grooved the front piece...
For the rubber cover to fit
Then o grooved the back side of the wires and the back side of the motor.
This is the final assemble, yet not fixed
It was time to fix the spacers with the motor:
I cleaned with a strong degrease fluid and i roughed the surfaces of the motor and the plastic pieces
I covered with tape the exposed shaft of the motor
Using very strong glue, i glued the pieces on the motor. Then i placed the construction inside a half-piece of the same tube that they are supposed to be.
I put some more epoxy and let it dry. I then turned the assy to the other side and put some more epoxy and let dry.
I let this piece to dry for one day (24hours). Then i put it all together:
This is how the parts will be inserted in the tube. The tube is 240cm long
I drilled 2 holes on the tube
I soldered 2 wires on the motor for power supply
I pushed everything inside the tube. They fit perfectly!
With the drill, i drilled 2 holes, one on the plastic piece that is fixed on the back side of the motor, and the other on the cap-piece.
I put 2 screws to hold the entrails inside. The shaker assy is ready. Now i need to make the up-down mechanism
Going Up, Going down...
First of all, i need to make a linear guide where the mixer will move to:
I cut two pieces of plastic tube with internal diameter 12.5mm, and a piece of marine wood
I drilled the tubes in 2 positions. The holes goes through all the tube. One hole is 5mm diameter and one is 3mm.
I screwed the two pieces on each side of the wood.
Then i cut two long aluminum tubes with external diameter 12mm. These will be the guides.
Two U aluminum profiles with holes will hold the aluminum tubes in position
I fixed the guide base together with very long screws. It moves extremely smooth!
A car with one window less
It was just about time to make it happen! I will use the motor and a part of the mechanism from an old car electric window. The following assy is only a prototype. I did this ONLY for test. The final assy will be on a better piece of wood.
This is the mechanism from the car electric window.
I removed the base and some other small parts. But the wire is too long
I removed about 12cm of wire
I stripped the plastic from... this thing (i do not know the name)
I used it to join the wire. It is very tough!!!
Isn't it sweet? It works perfect!
The final group assy
After some hours of testing the guides and the motor for vibrations and poimts of high friction, i was ready to make the final assemble. I took a proper piece of wood cut to size. Then, i used a threaded spacer and a screw from the wire-clipping of an old power relay. This clipping is a wide-angled V shape of a very hard metal and is used to clip the wire. It has a hole on the center for the screw to go through, which i had to remove this screw. I cut it and replaced it with my M3 screw. Then, i fixed this screw in the 10mm threaded spacer. I also added a washer. Between the washer and the wire clip, i put the wire from the mechanism. This way, the threaded spacer is now fixed to the wire.
I took a nice 16mm board cut to size
I used a wire-clip from an old power relay, a threaded 10mm spacer and a washer to make the wire hook
I screwed the wire clip to the threaded spacer, and between this clip and a washer i had the wire from the up/down motor hooked. The spacer is now fixed to the wire
Then i drilled an 8mm hole to the center of the wagon (base of the mixer). The 10mm spacer is inserted firmly to this hole. The wagon wood is 16mm and the spacer 10mm. With another 3mm screw and a washer, i fixed the wagon onto the spacer. Now, when the wire moves up/down, the spacer will also move and the wagon is fixed to the spacer. Although i could use a tie-wrap or a piece of wire to fix the wagon onto the wire, that would be lame.
I drilled an 8mm hole at the center of the mixer wagon for the 10mm spacer to fit in
I put the spacer into the hole and fixed it with a 3mm screw and a washer
This is the final assy! The spacer is fixed on the wire and the wagon on the spacer. The motor moves the wire up/down.
@Alex In Greece during the Ancient times there was this saying: "Oyden monimoteron ek toy prosorinoy" which means that "nothing is more permanent than the temporary".
But now that you said that again, i think i should restart this project, shouldn't I? Hopefully within this year.
Hi you have a nice coffee Instant Cold Coffee Machine but you wanted to use a fridge for cold water but no water cooler that you use waron also in coffee automaaten is where you can get I know old water out of if not the name but it can look for you we have that built-in devices greetings alex
Hello George. Regarding the elements, these are hardware wiring to indicate wire connections between the modules. The orange boxes indicate wires coming from the output module (Digital Output Module - DOM), and the green indicate wires going to the Digital Input Modules. Notice that for example, from module "Rotary table", 4 wires comes out, then 2 of them arrive from the DOM and 2 goes to the CPU.
As far as the diode is concerned, this is only for polarity protection. It is the same as the D2. But you are right, It is not necessary and i may not put it after all.
I think your architecture diagram (first figure) is slightly confusing, because it seems to include elements of code (the elements above the CPU) with hardware elements. Ideally, you would have a system-level block diagram detailing your hardware and a separate functional block diagram to describe your code. If I'm misreading your architecture diagram, feel free to ignore this.
Secondly, looking at your reset circuitry, I see you have a 1N4148 diode between your microcontroller pin and your ICSP header (pin 1). I'm fairly certain this diode is not necessary, so you may want to double check that.
Frappé has become very popular here in the States. The difference is we use fresh coffee grounds to make coffee then we chill the hot coffee. But we tend to make more fresh coffee here while Europeans tend to make more instant coffee.
To serve we pour some in a glass and add chipped ice.
We also tend to add flavors to our frappé in the States. We can't leave a good thing alone - we have to tinker with it to make it more sellable.