Worklog - The water tank and radiator (November 21 2010)
This is my home-made radiator made with 3 meters of 6mm copper tube
I made a lot of experiments, with different water volumes, with peltiers (just for the experiment), radiators and such. I also got copper 6mm tube and made my own circular radiator with a 120mm fan (which it was a great failure). Anyway, after gaining some more experience, i realized that the power that i want to dissipate is so little, that i need of no radiator or other heat exchange method. The only thing that i would need is a metallic tank enough to hold at least 1 liter of water, and that's all.
The tank has to be metallic to have better heat transfer
I ran some experiments with it... It is just perfect
I had to make some changes of course...
I got this 10mm long tube
And with the heat-gun...
...I formed it...
Then, i had to make the tubing for the water pump and the return:
Then i drilled 2 holes significantly smaller than the tube (8mm)
I put the 2 tubes inside, fixed the pump and put the wire of the pump though another smaller hole
I applied lot of hot-melt glue from the inside of the cover to make it water-tight
I let the glue to heal completely
This is the cover with all the tubing and the pump wire
The cover placed on the tank. I will put also silicon to seal it
The tank will be placed horizontally, to maintain lower profile
So, now that i know exactly what i need to make for base, i will re-make it once more for a final time. Hopefully, this project will end within this week.
The draft drawing of the base
Usually, i make 3D models before i go to the construction. This time, i decided to practice my (inexisting) artistic skills, and i made a draft drawing with pencil and paper (wow! they still exist!). So, here is the drawing so far (as always, click to zoom):
The overall width will be 550mm and the length 250. It will have 2 separated rooms. The front will be for the lamp and the back for the water tank. The height is calculated so that the water tank will be 5mm above the bottom side, for better air circulation. Also, the 2 separators on the back are higher than the ones in the front, because they will also server as stands for the material, when it is long. I made a list of the woods that i will need. Te woods will all be 18mm thick.
Kamenos .... I was introduced Buce %u200B%u200Bof Borneo Indonesia I was very pleased with the files and acrylic glass folding heater at the circuit there is a pic 12F615 microcontroller IC. if I can get the list of programmers, software and downloadernya so I can try if the device can operate ... if Kamenos pleased I could be sent to a file that has been filled in the chip and at what price.
@Charlie i used to use a hot-air gun for bending but believe me, there is no comparison. Unless you make a base which blows equally hot air in a small region.
@Emmanuel the schematic is similar to the circuit that i link to. Very small changes (such as some zerner diodes and staff) are all marked on the new schematic. The parts are labeled on the schematic. Which of the parts are you having problem to clarify?
hallo again sir, i'd like to clarify the bills of requirement. im having troubles about it since you've change the circuitry of the PCB. i was wondering if you could post it as well so i can figure out where and what requirements to use.. im abit confuse on that part... TIA..
wow! thank you very much sir.. this will help me on my bender problems... i'll let you know if it does or does not work.. again thanks.. i'm off shopping for the parts in need.. hehehe!!
@Emmanuel Ah i see what you mean, you want the PCB and the parts layout. Ok, i uploaded them in the 3rd page (http://pcbheaven.com/projectpages/Acrylic_Glass_Folding_Heater/?p=2&topic=worklog)
Keep in mind that:
1. You need to CONFIRM twice that the TRIAC is correctly connected. Check the datasheet of the triac. If it is not correctly placed, then the optocoupler may be damaged.
2. There is LIVE HIGH VOLTAGE on the board. Take super extra precautions, and make sure you've read and understand this first:
http://www.pcbheaven.com/m_pages/el_shock_prec.php
@kammenos Bro im abit confuse on how to translate the diagram, i don't know much about electrical diagrams or how translate it, i just wanted to see/ask the full drawing which i can read, like where these 1 ohm resistor goes to etc. basically a drawing type with labels on it so i can understand which and where to put those capacitors, resistors, diodes etc on full PCB look. like on your worklog page 3 on "electronic staff" you labeled a pic there named "the artwork" for your final PCB design. if i could just have that drawing with labels on it so it would be easy for me to follow through..
@kammenos yeah sure im trying to find out where are the details and the design of your circuit board so that i can create it. i really do need some helping doing this project of mine. so i can use it for my other project.. please do reply.
i've been searching for this kind of bending Machine, and i found it.. i build the same thingy but mine has no cooling type and i can control the heat it produces. i tried looking something to control the amount it gave out, i use a wire from a microwave oven "microme wire" (thats what it is called here in my place). it gives out up to 1500 degrees of heat. i don't know much about circuitry. can you dimmer which can control the amount of heat of the rod will do the same for my "microme wire"? thanks and im looking forward for your reply.
@Miodrag the special glue is a kind of glue that is completely transparent and looks very much alike water. When the glue is poured onto plexiglass, the plastic melts temporary. So, when two plastics are put together under pressure and there is this glue between them, they melt and they join together. When the glue evaporates, they become solids again. The bond is very strong. I do not have the glue bottle, as i was given a small quantity into a glass bottle. But if i find more info i will post it.
But, can You be a little bit specific on what kind of 'special glue' You used and what was the exact procedure for joining those two plexi parts at the end !
Maybe that can be a separate explanation project ? :-)
Hi SoftEe. All materials are listed within the worklog pages. i am not sure about the type of the lamp. actually , it is not lamp, i think it is something like this:
http://www.bltdirect.com/product.php?pid=11052&cat=1913&nm=Infrared+500w+240v+Ceramic+Lamp
The one i have i measured it at 800 Watts, which is super high. If you get yours, get at least half smaller. The dimmer materials are listed on the schematic (click to enlarge). When you finish it, send me images of your design and i will post it in my blog.
At 13 January 2011, 22:20:50 user SoftEe wrote: [reply @ SoftEe]
Impressive! This reminds me when I was in junior high. Pretty much everything electrical I owned I took apart to see if I could improve it or make something different. Do you have a full materials list available? I would love to build one of these for projects around my house. One main project to hide electrical components behind my flat screen TV like this company without having to pay their outrageous prices. HIDEitmounts.com. Following my completion I will post a picture if that's ok. I live a block from a Radio Shack and 1/8 of a mile from a hardware store. I'm thinking this should be pretty straight forward. I'm excited to try it!
Nice thinking.
My grandfather had already made something similar (but simpler) in the 50-s/60-s when plexiglass was still pioneer stuff. Instead of aluminium/water, he used two sheets of asbestos. Instead of a lamp he used 4 resistor wires (3 on bottom, 1 on top) in between the asbestos sheets, where he put the plexi. Operated on 50 volts.
I like your work and way of thinking I though you might have used marble insted of aluminume I think I saw someone do that using thick marble I have no idea what type is that marble but it was thick one anyway keep the good work you did realy great job, I just love it and your site is full of matirials I would come back and sure got it in my feeder.