Worklog - The Acrylic Glass base (November 5 2010)
The rectangular tubes, 4 L 8mm quick-joins, 2 8 to 10mm Y quick-joins, a 8mm hose (i also habe 10mm hose), drills and taps...
Now i need something where the acrylic glass will stand. This something, must not burn under the heat of the lamp, nor must it become hot. If it gets hot, then the material that touches it will melt on it and the surface will be ruined.
I thought of plenty different thermal isolating materials, yet all had a flaw. For example, wood is a nice thermal isolator, but on the other hand it burns also nicely under heat... Ytong blocks are also perfect thermal isolators, but i am not building a house. Other materials had also good characteristics, but the price was not so good.
So, i turned once more to the original idea of water cooling. Two rectangular profile aluminums with closed ends will be placed above the lamp. Within these aluminums there will me constant water flow. Thankfully, water has a huge thermal capacity. Its enough to know that the energy that needs to be provided to 1 liter of water in order to be fully evaporated, is also enough to sent a batch of people to the moon with an electric elevator (the rope weight is not to be taken into account :) ).
Nevertheless, there will be a time that the water will also be hot, even if i have 2 or 3 liters of it. So, i will need something to cool the water in the tank that returns from the two bases. But that is another thing that i still think of, but i first need to run some experiments in real life. So, to make the base:The Acrylic Glass bases: (as always, click to enlarge)
I begun by cutting a 1 meter long 15x15mm rectangular aluminum profile into 2 pieces
Then, i cut 4 pieces of aluminum, 15 by 50mm to close the ends of the 2 pieces
I drilled 1 hole on each of these pieces (that was not really necessary)
The JB Weld. I hope that this will hold
I mixed the 2 chemicals together
I put a good amount of JB weld inside the rube and on the surface of the covers
I used paper tape to hold the covers onto the tube for curing
Did the same for the 2 tubes. Then i let them cure (with the closed side downwards) for a day
The next day, the JB Weld was 100% cured. Then, i repeated the same procedure for both tubes, but on their other side. I left them again for another day to cure. The next day, this was the result:
Hopefully this will hold.
JB Weld is not so strong after all
Don't try this at home, nor anywhere else, for it will fail. I don't know why, but i do know that the weld of JB Weld failed to hold the two aluminum parts together. I was completely disappointed by the product, as in their site they tell that it is absolutely suitable for aluminum. Well, it is not:
JB weld left me a broken connection, a broken heart, and enough mess to clear from inside the tubes, so that i wan re-use them...
Change of plan - Move to plan B
JBW may not me so strong to hold the aluminum pieces together, but believe me, it is strong enough to close the hole of the rectangular tube. I easily removed all 4 pieces from the tubes, but removing the JB weld from inside the tube was a hard job. So what? I thought that i could use this characteristic!
First of all, i closed again (with JB Weld) the tube that i tried to remove the epoxy, again with JB Weld. Then, i decided to change the topology of the inlets and outlets:
Removing the aluminum pieces from the sides of the rectangular tubes was (unfortunately) too easy
No problem though. Plan B. I will remove all aluminum pieces, but i will keep the epoxy as sealing
I marked, drilled and made threads to one side of the rectangular tube
I put some extra sealing teflon, because the profile has only 1.5mm thickness
I'm sure the sealing will be perfect, what i' m afraid of is the mechanical endurance of the joint
I put one L 8mm quick-joint on each side of the tube. These are the inlets and outlets
I feel confident about the sealing of these tubes, but i an not quite sure that they are mechanically durable. I feel like there will be no problem, i'm not sure though. Time will tell. I will keep this as-is and go to the next step...
Kamenos .... I was introduced Buce %u200B%u200Bof Borneo Indonesia I was very pleased with the files and acrylic glass folding heater at the circuit there is a pic 12F615 microcontroller IC. if I can get the list of programmers, software and downloadernya so I can try if the device can operate ... if Kamenos pleased I could be sent to a file that has been filled in the chip and at what price.
@Charlie i used to use a hot-air gun for bending but believe me, there is no comparison. Unless you make a base which blows equally hot air in a small region.
@Emmanuel the schematic is similar to the circuit that i link to. Very small changes (such as some zerner diodes and staff) are all marked on the new schematic. The parts are labeled on the schematic. Which of the parts are you having problem to clarify?
hallo again sir, i'd like to clarify the bills of requirement. im having troubles about it since you've change the circuitry of the PCB. i was wondering if you could post it as well so i can figure out where and what requirements to use.. im abit confuse on that part... TIA..
wow! thank you very much sir.. this will help me on my bender problems... i'll let you know if it does or does not work.. again thanks.. i'm off shopping for the parts in need.. hehehe!!
@Emmanuel Ah i see what you mean, you want the PCB and the parts layout. Ok, i uploaded them in the 3rd page (http://pcbheaven.com/projectpages/Acrylic_Glass_Folding_Heater/?p=2&topic=worklog)
Keep in mind that:
1. You need to CONFIRM twice that the TRIAC is correctly connected. Check the datasheet of the triac. If it is not correctly placed, then the optocoupler may be damaged.
2. There is LIVE HIGH VOLTAGE on the board. Take super extra precautions, and make sure you've read and understand this first:
http://www.pcbheaven.com/m_pages/el_shock_prec.php
@kammenos Bro im abit confuse on how to translate the diagram, i don't know much about electrical diagrams or how translate it, i just wanted to see/ask the full drawing which i can read, like where these 1 ohm resistor goes to etc. basically a drawing type with labels on it so i can understand which and where to put those capacitors, resistors, diodes etc on full PCB look. like on your worklog page 3 on "electronic staff" you labeled a pic there named "the artwork" for your final PCB design. if i could just have that drawing with labels on it so it would be easy for me to follow through..
@kammenos yeah sure im trying to find out where are the details and the design of your circuit board so that i can create it. i really do need some helping doing this project of mine. so i can use it for my other project.. please do reply.
i've been searching for this kind of bending Machine, and i found it.. i build the same thingy but mine has no cooling type and i can control the heat it produces. i tried looking something to control the amount it gave out, i use a wire from a microwave oven "microme wire" (thats what it is called here in my place). it gives out up to 1500 degrees of heat. i don't know much about circuitry. can you dimmer which can control the amount of heat of the rod will do the same for my "microme wire"? thanks and im looking forward for your reply.
@Miodrag the special glue is a kind of glue that is completely transparent and looks very much alike water. When the glue is poured onto plexiglass, the plastic melts temporary. So, when two plastics are put together under pressure and there is this glue between them, they melt and they join together. When the glue evaporates, they become solids again. The bond is very strong. I do not have the glue bottle, as i was given a small quantity into a glass bottle. But if i find more info i will post it.
But, can You be a little bit specific on what kind of 'special glue' You used and what was the exact procedure for joining those two plexi parts at the end !
Maybe that can be a separate explanation project ? :-)
Hi SoftEe. All materials are listed within the worklog pages. i am not sure about the type of the lamp. actually , it is not lamp, i think it is something like this:
http://www.bltdirect.com/product.php?pid=11052&cat=1913&nm=Infrared+500w+240v+Ceramic+Lamp
The one i have i measured it at 800 Watts, which is super high. If you get yours, get at least half smaller. The dimmer materials are listed on the schematic (click to enlarge). When you finish it, send me images of your design and i will post it in my blog.
At 13 January 2011, 22:20:50 user SoftEe wrote: [reply @ SoftEe]
Impressive! This reminds me when I was in junior high. Pretty much everything electrical I owned I took apart to see if I could improve it or make something different. Do you have a full materials list available? I would love to build one of these for projects around my house. One main project to hide electrical components behind my flat screen TV like this company without having to pay their outrageous prices. HIDEitmounts.com. Following my completion I will post a picture if that's ok. I live a block from a Radio Shack and 1/8 of a mile from a hardware store. I'm thinking this should be pretty straight forward. I'm excited to try it!
Nice thinking.
My grandfather had already made something similar (but simpler) in the 50-s/60-s when plexiglass was still pioneer stuff. Instead of aluminium/water, he used two sheets of asbestos. Instead of a lamp he used 4 resistor wires (3 on bottom, 1 on top) in between the asbestos sheets, where he put the plexi. Operated on 50 volts.
I like your work and way of thinking I though you might have used marble insted of aluminume I think I saw someone do that using thick marble I have no idea what type is that marble but it was thick one anyway keep the good work you did realy great job, I just love it and your site is full of matirials I would come back and sure got it in my feeder.
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