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This project is not completed yet - Last update: January 27, 2013
Modding Yamaha CryptonR - "The Crypton Project"Author
Panagiotis Kalogeris
September 5, 2012

PAGE 4 of 8 - Rear Light




[ Rear Light ]



On the rear light the only difficulty i faced, was again the way of how to consolidate the leds on the tail panel.
Since the flashing leds i used are 1W and the fact that the current they consume is about 300ma (MAX) there was no need (and after experimentation i did) to place them on a heatsink.
So i was a little bit reliefed because i wasn't worried for the flashing leds heatsink.....
The next think that i should have on mind, was to think a way, that when it would be requiered to change the leds, i wouldn't have to disassemble the whole motorcycle..... :-)
You may have noticed already that i used connectors, and polarized connector to every led as a result everything could be easily changed..

At first i took the led and i opened to it 2 holes (for transfering the wires back).
Then i drilled the case with a smaller drill so the screw that i was going to use, to be screwdrived tightly on the rear panels plastic case.Below are the photos....


The Led drilled, and soldered with the wires. A photo from the back of the led.



The drills i did for Led. The Led on the tail panel (Screwed).



 
And this is how the wires passed behind, for connection with the led driver.		 



Thats for the flashing leds... Now for the "Stop" led i didn't have to use a very big heatsink.
The current draw that the led consumes is about(~400ma) when i press brake switch, and in normal conditions is about (~150ma).



The tail light showing the aluminium rod fitting, with the holes i created for led's mounting. The "Stop" Led fitting, with the insulating bushing.




The tail light from behind.
the polarized connectors makes perfect solution for easy changing.		 The tail light "on" the motorcycle.




Note:
In the photo above you will notice that i have placed the led driver "on" the tail light.
I did a very big mistake because i forgot that the mosfet gets hot and should be placed on a heatsink.
So after few days when the mosfet died took with it and the led.
That cause me to change position of the driver and place it on a heatsink.which were the chassis motorcycle
(See on Drivers Page for further info)




The stop light at night. (Image injustice the result) The stop light at night. With the flashing led on.


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  • At 5 March 2015, 23:49:39 user Stentor wrote:   [reply @ Stentor]
      • I still don't get it, as my bike has 4 oem cables: gnd(black) green and 2yellow ones. I made the led "bulb" according to your idea (thans again) but driven it with a 10w led driver and not your driver, but this way i only have 1 beam, cause could not figure out how connect 4 cables to 5 jumpers (ok the two are the led out) lol.
      Thanks anyway. You are very helpful.

  • At 19 February 2015, 11:22:31 user Panagiotis Kalogeris wrote:   [reply @ Panagiotis Kalogeris]
      • If you open the schematic and the board files which are listed below it will be more clear to you.
      There are 7 pins
      2 for the input 12-14,5v (Bebause of the alternator)
      2 for the led and
      3 for the selection of the beam (High,Low Half pin is the common).

      Regards Panagiotis

  • At 16 February 2015, 16:54:48 user Stentor wrote:   [reply @ Stentor]
      • No that idea was also great.
      My question was on the connections from the 3 oem cables (earth,high,low beam) to the pcb pins, as far as i can see, there is an extra input on the board, have you driven a new 12v cable or have i understood wrong?
      Thanks in advance and for the quick reply.
      Respect
      Dimitris Stentor

  • At 12 February 2015, 18:17:08 user Panagiotis Kalogeris wrote:   [reply @ Panagiotis Kalogeris]
      • Hello Stendor and thank you for your good words....
      If i have undrestand you correctly, you mean that... "why not to place the led on the yamaha's bulb socket? " If is that so, then i will answer you that you will face a ploblem which is blinding other drivers.
      With the aluminium rod i used i have made a 45 degrees corner approximately and you avoid blinding other drives....Please if you meant something else post again.

      Regards Panagiotis

  • At 11 February 2015, 19:59:19 user Stentor wrote:   [reply @ Stentor]
      • Amazing work. I have the exact same model, but i have a silly question
      Since at the oem bulb socket, are 3connections (low,high,earth), have you driven a different,new one for the Vin? Would'n be a way to use only the oem connections?
      Thank you

  • At 10 December 2013, 0:30:25 user Panagiotis Kalogeris wrote:   [reply @ Panagiotis Kalogeris]
      • Nevermind..... Glad to learn something that i didn't know!
      So.... the more the better!!! :-)

  • At 1 December 2013, 6:37:44 user astral_mage wrote:   [reply @ astral_mage]
      • i hate to correct u there but leds now have an average lifespan of 200,000 - 300,000 hour lifespan

  • At 19 November 2013, 23:09:21 user Panagiotis Kalogeris wrote:   [reply @ Panagiotis Kalogeris]
      • Hello John sorry for the late reply well try to find transistors with the same characteristics....Its not critical the type of the particular transistor.The driver transistor is the transistor that you must select carefully...I'am here to help you as much as i can.

      Regards

  • At 10 November 2013, 23:25:10 user John wrote:   [reply @ John]
      • Great I couldn't understand the jp thank you!!!

      Another question about the transistor , I saw you used two types one with plastic cover (TO92) and one with metal (TO18). Were they 2N2222 and BC107 or something else (I do not know if there is a difference)?
      I took the advice of Kam and yours and I will use buck convectors, so I believe the dissipation will be less so I think the TO92 will be nice.
      The resistances you choose are rated 1/2 watt?

      P.S. I will have more question later!!!

  • At 9 November 2013, 9:23:45 user Panagiotis Kalogeris wrote:   [reply @ Panagiotis Kalogeris]
      • Hello John!
      Well Jp1 is the input of the circuit.Is where you connect the power from your battery (Jp1 pin1 pin2-).
      Jp2 is the output where you connect the led (Jp2 pin1 pin2-).
      And finnaly Jp3 is the selection switch for the 2 scales of the led brightness.
      So there you will have to connect the switch on your left hand where you can select the 2 scales.If you wire the middle one with one of the two resistors you will notice the brightness changes according the value of the selected resistor.

      Yes for the rear led i used 3w where i have it working on half when i do not press break....

      I have also noticed your observation for the front led. I was thinking of placing a small fan for cooling it down.But after few experiments i ended that it gets very hot on the big scale where is not always "on".My considarations wasn't for the plastics but for the led itself (Reducing his life dramatically)the incadescent lamp was getting much hotter that the led's heatsink.Also remember that if you place a fan you can increase the wattage of the led.Also if you are planning to add a fan don't forget to make some big holes to the surrounding plastic.
      "Look to the picture with the comment " The heatsinks i used taken from a broken tv. (Notice the one mosfet with the 7806.)""on led driver page.

  • At 25 October 2013, 11:14:26 user John wrote:   [reply @ John]
      • Really nice!!!
      I am trying to do something like yours to test it but at your Led Driver Pcb I cannot understand where to connect jp1,2,3.
      I can understand that this pcb with the 3.3 and 1.2 ohm resistors are for the front light of 10w.
      For the red rear light did you use 3watt led?

      The front led heatsink is it getting very hot, I am wondering about the plastics around the light.

      Thank you
      P.S. I m waiting the rest of the worklog!!!

  • At 4 March 2013, 8:07:57 user Panagiotis Kalogeris wrote:   [reply @ Panagiotis Kalogeris]
      • Hosea i am currently working on it i will post it when it will be finished and of course tested.
      Its in a "beta mode" right now... :-)

  • At 4 March 2013, 8:01:27 user Panagiotis Kalogeris wrote:   [reply @ Panagiotis Kalogeris]
      • I will post the circuit diagram as soon as possible...( i must draw it first :-) ) As for the high and the low beam here's what i did....For the low beam, i drive the led with current consumption around 300ma and for the high beam i drive the led with current consumption around 900ma.Believe me it acts like a high beam because of the lumens that produces and of course without blinding other drivers......

  • At 28 February 2013, 18:23:12 user Matheus Lopes wrote:   [reply @ Matheus Lopes]
      • That rod idea is genial. But how would you use the high and low beam?

  • At 28 February 2013, 13:44:21 user Hosea wrote:   [reply @ Hosea]
      • the modifications are very impressive but looking forward to see the circuit diagram of the alarm



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