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1 January 1970 Author:
Comments
At 28 June 2013, 2:28:41 user Electronics Circuits and Schematics wrote: [reply @ Electronics Circuits and Schematics]Another Simple Application of 555 Timer.......!!!
Thank You.
At 10 December 2011, 1:51:31 user John Webb wrote: [reply @ John Webb]HI There, as a 60 year old Engineer (Mechanical)I read your article and most of it went over my head, however more to the point is that I started to understand how the signal process comes about.
To come to the point; I have a patent that requires voice activation of an LED screen displaying the spoken commands clearly in english. I can manually program a remote to gain the outcome that I want. IE. key in the words I want displayed and then push the "Go" button to display the message. However I need to just say one of the 7 commands and want the screen to display the message. Is this some thing that is a simple outcome or will it get messy and expensive...Hint!! If you have an inexpensive solution, I would be willing to share in the outcome of the product hitting the market...I have a global patent. John playground42@optusnet.com.au
At 16 August 2011, 19:14:11 user Kammenos wrote: [reply @ Kammenos]@amalu friend, the correct frequency is the one that your remote control has, but i can totally assure you that if you get 39KHz on your jammer, it will work for anything between 37 and 40. You may need a frequency counter to see the frequency of the jammer. If this is not available as well, then you need to stay in front of your tv, play with the potentiometer and test.
Getting the vf of an LED is not easy. But this is something that you must know when you buy it. A typical VF is 3.2 volts. But IR LEDs may have 1.3 volts, because they are ment to be used in remote controls which they operate with 2 AA batteries. You need to ask the man you got them from.
At 13 August 2011, 14:29:51 user amalu wrote: [reply @ amalu]thanks ,what i do to get correct frequency of my jammer? oscilloscope not in my hand? how i get the vf of led? what is the correct vf of the jammer?please help me
At 11 August 2011, 9:48:18 user Kammenos wrote: [reply @ Kammenos]@amalu IR LED glow===bad news. Your LED is probably dead. The reason that i suspect is that you used a 1.3V LED instead of the 3.2V that i use. It got double the voltage it can handle. I did the very same mistake myself once, and the LED glowed (pale red) for its last time. So, you need to verify the forward voltage (Vf) of your LED and use the appropriate resistor instead of the 40 ohms that i use.
At 10 August 2011, 11:25:43 user amalu wrote: [reply @ amalu]hi,i did this again and again ,but i didnt get a jammer,the ir led was glowed but i didnt gets its output i cant to jam my tv... ,so please help me to correct this work perfectly ,please tell me the corrct frequency of jammer and its time period pleaseeeeeeeeeeee
At 27 June 2011, 18:34:53 user Kammenos wrote: [reply @ Kammenos]@shahid the circuit is correct, cheap but correct. If you get powerful enough leds it will work. The leds are not glowing.
At 27 June 2011, 18:15:43 user shahid wrote: [reply @ shahid]hi, this is shahid, i have all the components required and i wish to make thos circuit..but before that i wanted to know that '' is this circuit correct?? and if yes, why your IR LED is glowing?? because IR LED doesnt glows...
At 12 March 2011, 12:26:28 user Fung wrote: [reply @ Fung]Emm...after testing, I think that BC546 may not be suitable because it generates heat with a maximum temperature of 32.5 degrees (background ~22 degrees), BC338 or even BC639 are more suitable.
Some receivers have an indicator to show that a signal is received from a remote control. Without finding the frequency of a remote control, if I found that the indicator blinks when I turn the variable resistor of this jammer, is that the remote control's frequency?
At 9 March 2011, 16:27:14 user Kammenos wrote: [reply @ Kammenos]
At 9 March 2011, 16:20:09 user Fung wrote: [reply @ Fung]I wonder that BC546 would also did a good job in the absence of 2N2222, and there may be no 40ohms resistor, but 39ohms or 43ohms instead.
Are powerful IR LEDs recommended?
At 21 February 2011, 6:00:43 user Kammenos wrote: [reply @ Kammenos]but all the materials are listed on the schematic. the transistor is a 2n2222.
At 18 February 2011, 22:07:21 user imran Agha wrote: [reply @ imran Agha]I find your work really interesting..i want to try it myself....Can you help me with the right component i should order that will be fit for this circuit. I have attached a link from a suppliers website ...can you pin point which component to chose
thanks
http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/results.jsp?N=0&Ntk=gensearch_001&Ntt=555+timer&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&suggestions=false&ref=globalsearch&_requestid=597279&isGoback=false&displaytext=&isRedirect=false
At 27 October 2010, 11:40:43 user Kammenos wrote: [reply @ Kammenos]Hello shama. I am not quite sure that i have understand your question. You mean, why have i connect the oscilloscope? Well, the reason for the oscilloscope is NOT to make the remote control, but to see what kind of signal it sends, what is the frequency and what letter it transmits. If you ask something different, please rephrase your question.
At 27 October 2010, 11:14:38 user shama khan wrote: [reply @ shama khan]this all things are ok but didn't got the conection exactly.means by connecting oscilloscope how can remot work? pleas, if possible discribe it. i will be grase full to you.
At 6 May 2010, 11:59:12 user Kammenos wrote: [reply @ Kammenos]The circuit is an astable multivibrator with 555. Go to the section named "The simple TV remote control jammer circuit" above, and you will find all the theory needed to calculate it yourself, and an on-line calculator for this circuit.
At 6 May 2010, 5:39:03 user vilan wrote: [reply @ vilan]hw u hve calculatd frequency
At 10 November 2009, 18:00:43 user A Badway wrote: [reply @ A Badway]ok..would you please send me the parts .. as i could not get the 2n222 they give me att2222 insted and they told me it is the same ...maybe that is where everything went wrong ...thanks again
At 10 November 2009, 17:13:17 user A Badway wrote: [reply @ A Badway]I tried again and again,I checked the circuits for mistake all i noticed was \" that the current going through all a part from the last 2 Led,any clo whay is that ?
At 9 November 2009, 15:57:05 user Kammenos wrote: [reply @ Kammenos]Badway i am sorry, we do not sell kits here, not yet anyway.
I can send you the parts needed, but it would be better for you to do it yourself, and i can help you with this as much as i can. Subscribe to our forum and post images of video links with what you have done, and i am sure we will find the error.
At 7 November 2009, 23:41:59 user A Badway wrote: [reply @ A Badway]I done it all.. and it did not work .. as i done other on the net all did not work..it seems that i been doing something wrong.
any chance of sending me one done ?? i will pay for it.. thanks in advance
At 4 September 2009, 17:05:16 user kammenos wrote: [reply @ kammenos]You can use an IR decoder chip along with it's equal IR encoder. You could use this chip (http://www.microchip.com/wwwproducts/Devices.aspx?dDocName=en010407) for example to do a pair.
To decode ANY signal from ANY remote control, you will need either a microcontroller or you can send the signal to a PC through the RS232 port for example.
I hope i covered you because i am not sure what exactly you meant with your question.
At 4 September 2009, 15:41:58 user trandito wrote: [reply @ trandito]how to decode this IR signal with a simple circuit?
At 3 September 2009, 16:31:16 user kammenos wrote: [reply @ kammenos]I put the probe on the positive of the IR LED and ground to negative.
At 3 September 2009, 10:52:45 user navu wrote: [reply @ navu]Exactly across which part of the remote control did you connect the oscilloscope to measure the frequency of transmitted pulses? |
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